Below are the 20 most recent journal entries recorded in advanced_sewing's LiveJournal:

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Friday, February 10th, 2012
8:52 pm [silkexoskeleton]	Making Corsets is a Cinch with Electra Designs (Kickstarter Campaign) I'm not sure if this falls under the category of advertising. If it is, please feel free to delete, and accept my apologies. I am Alexis Black of Electra Designs Corsetry. In addition to making high quality custom corsets, I also teach corset making. I would like to create a comprehensive collection of corset-making instructional materials that show people how to make corsets using my unique construction methods. I thought you might be interested. If you would like to learn more, please visit my kickstarter campaign page, pledge your support and share the project anywhere you think it might be appreciated. There is a short video there I think you might enjoy. Thank you so much! (Comment on this)
Tuesday, January 17th, 2012
8:15 pm [janestarz]	Knit fabrics - different drafting? Hello and good evening to all. I have a question about drafting patterns for knit fabrics. A little background: I've been sewing costumes for more than five years and have finally started to get a degree for what I do. Because I'm ambitious, I am studying to become a custom dressmaker. We study the Rundschau method and I go to class one evening per week. My exam for drafting patterns and taking measurements is in April, and it took us a year and a half to work up to it. You could say I'm a little experienced at drafting, but we're mostly drafting gowns and coats (click for an example). Blouses, skirts, and especially pants are all pretty much glossed over, although we did do several blouses. I am getting pretty good at the dresses and have started drafting full-size patterns for myself. Of course the basic gown block can be used to create pretty much any garment from (although the ease differs whether you're making a blouse, a dress, or a coat) and I've made myself a dress, a coat and a blouse from patterns I drew for myself from measurements that were taken in class. Now comes the tricky bit. I've asked my teacher, but she hasn't given me a definitive answer, so I'm turning to you fancy folks for help. I want to sew myself several shirts, made from a rayon-blend jersey knit fabric. I wear these often underneath jackets and vests, and it would be nice if they actually have long enough sleeves for a change (I am freakishly tall). The last time I made a shirt for myself from a knit fabric, I took at least 5 cm (2 inches) out of the side seam to make it fit better. I am confident that there should be an adjustment for it in your drafting, but we're not taught that at school. How do I adjust for knit fabrics in my pattern drafting? The answer I came up with myself is to take a piece of the material and determine the stretch factor and account for that in the pattern. So if the pattern has a 10% stretch, I should draft my pattern 10% smaller if I want it to fit really tightly. But this doesn't really fit the bill, because I don't want to look like a sausage and it's not a swimsuit or lingerie. The answer my teacher gave me is to use a basic block without a shoulder dart (dart-less setup is the best translation I can muster -- in Dutch it's called a "suçonloze opstelling") and to eliminate any horizontal ease. However, I know that the dart-less setup doesn't have much shape at all and I doubt this will work as well if you take my figure into account: I have a large bust and small waist, with big hips. If I use the dart-less setup the only shaping is done in the side seams, and I am afraid I'll just get a fancy bag that will stretch far too much on the boobs and have no waistline. I sure hope there's a better option! On an internet forum, I read that the best way to go about it is to fold the pattern pieces down in the center and reduce the size that way. Because each knit is different, it's mostly a matter of modeling on the person who is going to be wearing it. Although I set great store by the patterns we make, I realise that every garment needs to be fitted on the person, no matter how well you draft your patterns. It would be very nice to narrow the pattern pieces down in advance, so it will be easier to do, and I won't be wasting much time. In the end, I want to be able to create a pattern for myself to make draping like this and and this. It could be glorious in a knit fabric, but draping fabric like that from a basic block can only be done right when the block is already fitting well! (2 Comments |Comment on this)
Tuesday, March 20th, 2012
9:16 am [janestarz]	New maintainer Hi everyone! Just a little heads-up that the advanced_sewing community has recently been assigned a new maintainer: janestarz. I will be watching the moderation queue and approve entries as they come in, and I'll be monitoring comment threads to see if there are any spam messages coming through. Expect some older entries to show up after this one as I clear the moderation queue. Thank you, and I hope to see many posts rolling in. (Comment on this)
Tuesday, December 27th, 2011
8:16 pm [helenatroy]	Where can I see some bustles in New England Hello, I was hoping this community might be able to help me with this. I often see photographs of people wearing their Victorian clothing at what look like events, and I was thinking if there are events open to the public where people dress up and show off their creations I could go to one and see what these dresses are like before I try to tackle making one for myself. If such things exist, if someone on this community knows about any in the New England area for 2012 and would consider sharing, I would be very grateful. HT (9 Comments |Comment on this)
Wednesday, December 7th, 2011
2:31 pm [eggies_red_dres]	Cross posting: This is process shots of a first try at hemming chiffon using a prepared buckram as a stabilizer. THIS WORKS. The only attempts I'd made sewing with this technique previously were on straight seams in organza. So what you see are before I'd tried it on the chiffon. Also captured a few mistakes to avoid. Anyone like sheer fabrics in their finished state but hate working on their wrinkly wormy mess they become when cut? This method is for you. Here's a picture of the finished hem, so you know I'm not joking around. ( In process shots, and a couple mistakes! ) Unbelievable. I love this technique, and it opens design doors that were previously closed because of my equipment limitations. I think that a rolled hem foot is a good tool for stable fabrics, but for lightweight materials, it will stretch and distort the hem edge despite gentle handling and finish pressing. How did I get by without it before? (28 Comments |Comment on this)
Tuesday, November 1st, 2011
10:17 pm [the_sybil]	I finally have something to post here! I've been following this community for ages, but have never posted before, because I've never before made anything I could really consider "advanced". This has now changed! From halloween I've been steadily working on this outfit for my husband for--ooh, several years now, finally culminating in the tailcoat, finished only a couple of weeks ago. I would definitely consider the tailcoat "advanced sewing!" My mum gave me a great deal of help with the tailoring--I'd never done anything like it before. In fact she helped me with most of it! I was particularly pleased with the fabirc--a lovely quality wool worsted which we picked up for not very much money at all in the Los Angeles Fabric District. Ok, it's not perfect, and a real expert in historical costume could pick many, many holes. But I'm damn pleased with it, and you've got to admit it looks good on him, haven't you? (5 Comments |Comment on this)
Sunday, October 23rd, 2011
11:22 am [shalie]	Pleats Hello, I am researching 1880s bustle gowns. Many of them have rows of tight pleats. Pleats that are still crisp and defined 120 years later. I saw one today a velvet bustle skirt that had long pleats the length of the skirt. I know the trick of using vinegar to hold pleats. That wouldn't work on velvet or hold the pleats for years. Does anyone know how the Victorians created these pleats? Sincerely, Shalie (2 Comments |Comment on this)
Friday, October 14th, 2011
9:32 am [shalie]	Seamstress in Auburn or NYC needed Hello, I have been working with a lady that wants a reproduction of the dress below. She splits her time between Auburn, AL and New Jersey, near NYC. I'm in Atlanta and don't feel she would be available for the fittings required to make this dress. She is willing to pay $1,300 for labor and supplies. I told her $600 labor and she would be responsible for finding the materials (except small stuff that I would bill her for, providing a receipt.) She needs the dress by Labor Day of 2012. She has another dress she would also like done. It isn't as elaborate as this one but would still be complex. Is there anyone on this list that would be interest? I want someone near Auburn or NYC. I would also like to see photos of your prior work before I give her your name. I will pass along all the information I have on the dress and correspondences. Thank you, Shalie (2 Comments |Comment on this)
Saturday, October 1st, 2011
1:42 pm [deadsilent]	Crotch point fitting Hi everyone: I'm working on a costume and the pattern fits perfectly except there's lots of excess at the crotch in the front and back, going in different directions. See the pics below: ( Pics & measurements ) If I subtract these excesses from the crotch point towards the hip, I will have either a very short curve or no curve at all. How can I fix my patterns? Thanks! (6 Comments |Comment on this)
Friday, September 23rd, 2011
12:00 pm [shalie]	Hello, Does anyone know a website that reviews sewing machines? My workhorse needs to be upgraded but I'm unsure which brands are worth looking at. Whatever I purchase needs to handle being put through it's paces regularly, be able to handle leather and thick groupings of fabric, have an arm small enough to do a women's cuff and hold up long term. The one I have now is from the 70s and is going strong. It just doesn't have any of the fancy computerized functions new ones have. I'm tired of having to borrow my mother's Bernina for delicate or decorative work. Thank you, Shale (5 Comments |Comment on this)
Sunday, September 18th, 2011
5:21 pm [beloitst]	Wanted to borrow - colonial or pirate outfits for men and women The Post-Meridan Radio Players [Boston, MA, USA] are performing "The Legend of Sleepy Hollow" set in 1790s Tarrytown, New York. Unfortunately, the costume designer [me, Wendy] has broken my ankle, which has interrupted plans to make the the costumes for the show. I am now on a desperate search to borrow items for the show, and I am reaching out to the wider community for help. Between all the pirate aficionados, LARPers, and reenactors in our wider community, I hope folks will lend me a hand. Most important need is men's coats and boots, followed by vests, and then women's gowns or bodices / skirts. Sleepy Hollow: Ride Across America opens on Oct 9th and runs through Oct 20th. We would be looking to pick up and collect costume pieces by Oct. 1st. All items will be dry cleaned before returning to their owner. If you have something you might be willing to loan, please contact me directly at wendy.suzanne@gmail.com. Alternatively, if you happen to sew and would be willing to take on a sewing project (volunteer/unpaid) to be completed by Oct 8th, this would also be a tremendous help. You can also help by just spreading the word of our need! For more information, check out http://www.sleepyhollow2011.com/ or contact Wendy with any questions. Sincerely, Wendy Misuinas (wendy.suzanne@gmail.com) Costume Designer, Sleepy Hollow The Post-Meridian Radio Players (2 Comments |Comment on this)
4:37 pm [eternal_chimera]	seam ripper advice? I loathe ripping seams, and I am wondering if maybe it is the tool I am using. I have this little guy. http://sewingproductsquick.blogspot.com/2011/09/allary-combi-cut-seam-ripper-with.html I have to say, having the tweezers has been handy. I don't know if it has just gotten dull and needs replaced or what, but it just seems more difficult than it should be to rip seams with it. Does anyone have any marvelous suggestions? Thanks in advance. **Thanks everyone, sounds like a need a better tool and patience.** (11 Comments |Comment on this)
Thursday, September 15th, 2011
12:53 pm [sklamalam]	Need some help. I'm trying to buy a knit fabric, I need a specific one & I cannot find it in my local fabric shops so I'm gonna buy online. I want to make sure I get the correct fabric but I don't know the specific name of the knit I want, & with buying online I cannot feel the hand. It's a knit used for garments like tshirts, hoodies & lounge pants. It is not the same on front & back. The front is smooth fine ribs & the back is loops & it has little to no stretch. If any one can tell me what it's called I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks. (4 Comments |Comment on this)
Tuesday, September 6th, 2011
8:10 pm [mutive]	Serger Issues So...I recently purchased a Brother 1034D Serger. And I've followed the instructions on the DVD to thread it, and it will serge well for about...2", then stop. And I have no idea why. (When I disconnect, typically either the green thread or the blue thread has slipped from its hook.) I'm sure this is a total newbie question, but how do I get it to stop doing this? It's driving me crazy! Thanks! ETA: Thanks all. I got it to serge this morning. Near as I can tell, lowering the tension on the thread that kept snapping, re-threading everything a few more times (paying super special attention to make sure everything was just right) and offering it a few prayers/promises of the soul of my first born (OK, the second was a joke...) got it to serge. ...now I am hoping it never runs out of thread, as I'm not sure I'll ever get it to work again... (10 Comments |Comment on this)
Monday, September 5th, 2011
2:56 pm [helenatroy]	Hugging the curve under your bum Hello, I hope someone can point me the right direction to fix this problem. I've been using Donald McCunn's pattern drafting book, and also an on-line pattern drafting guide, but I still end up with the fabric falling in a straight line coming off of the curve of my buttock. I do see that it looks *better* if I take in the side seams, but the extra fabric is still there where my bottom curves into my thigh. Can someone tell me what I can to get the pattern to be tight against the top of my thigh and show the curve of my bottom? ( pics ) (12 Comments |Comment on this)
Thursday, August 25th, 2011
11:57 am [ladygoddess]	Need a replacement skirt pattern I'm making this dress for my October wedding in a dark blue-violet. However, I HATE that skirt. So I need to find a replacement skirt pattern that uses the same amount of fabric (6 yds). Do you have any suggestions? Current Mood: hopeful (8 Comments |Comment on this)
Wednesday, August 24th, 2011
4:59 pm [quercus]	When interfacing meets darts I'm making one of these, the Truly Victorian French vest bodice Like many Victorian jackets et al. it's pieced together from lots of vertical panels to give the tailored shape. It's also interlined, although in this case, to get an even more "robust" and formalised look to it, I'm using a fusible interfacing. TBH, my outer fabric (from the vast pile of cheap) is also a little on the lightweight side, so this doesn't hurt. As well as the many panels, there are also two long front darts - which leads to my question: how do I cut fusible interfacing when it's to be applied to the back of a panel with prominent darts in it? I've sewn the darts and pressed them backwards, per usual. Presumably I also need to remove a vee of fabric from the interfacing, then fuse it onto my main fabric - but how close to trim? I'm worried about too close (and the dart fold becoming visible from the front) or even worse, the interfacing ending with a visible gap and so the overall garment developing a "hinge" line from the front. Thanks for advice (3 Comments |Comment on this)
Wednesday, August 10th, 2011
11:30 am [arichelic]	Tudor/Renaissance Dress Question To the advanced sewers out there who like Tudor/Elizabethan/Renaissance dresses: is it possible to wear a Tudor dress without the hoopskirt and still have it look accurate? I go to Renaissance Faires and I really love the cut and look of Tudor dresses, but dread the idea having to wear a hoop skirt. I go for enjoyment, and I want to be comfortable, so I wouldn't mind a dress being a little off for the sake of fun. Would it be possible to wear a petticoat (preferably hoopless) in place of a hoop skirt and still have the dress look somewhat accurate, or am I dreaming up an impossibility? I want to make a dress based off Simplicity 2589. It calls for a corset, shift/chemise, bum roll and hoopskirt. The hoopskirt is the only thing I don't want to wear. The idea of having adjust oneself in order to sit or even walk seems very twisted. I know the bum roll will add some volume, and my prom dress had a pretty full skirt, and it was just layers of tulle. It flowed and was comfortable, so could I wear something like that and it still look okay?   So I was wondering if anyone had any pictures of what a Tudor dress (or Elizabethan or Renaissance) would look like without the hoop skirt, either with a petticoat in its place, or not. I also heard that early Tudor dresses didn't have the hoop skirt. If that's the case, what did they wear underneath? Thanks for all the help! And if I seem a bit nuts at the idea, then call me crazy, I'm a girl of comfort. =P Current Mood: crazy (17 Comments |Comment on this)
Friday, July 8th, 2011
6:09 pm [christhegeek]	For anyone who has traditional japanese sewing experiance I am making a costume Juban and Kimono for a friend. I have made a Kimono before after taking apart a stained Kimono a japanese seamstress donated to my cause. Is the juban basically the same pattern only in a light, non-lined fabric? (4 Comments |Comment on this)
Monday, June 13th, 2011
5:21 pm [fadeviolet]	Where could I purchase ready to wear, comfortable, decorative, elastic waistbands, much like famous Calvin Klein one below? I love making PJ pants, and would be much happier to serge on cute elastic instead of making the casing & threading elastic through. Thanks! (4 Comments |Comment on this)