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Below are the 20 most recent journal entries recorded in advanced_sewing's LiveJournal:

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    Monday, November 24th, 2014
    3:47 pm
    Pattern Scan
    Over the summer I visited a small museum with a collection of in-package sewing patterns from the 30's and 40's. Talking to the curator, she said she'd be happy scan them for me, but isn't sure how. Does anyone have any advice? The best I can come up with is just do it chunk by chunk on a regular scanner, and I can piece them together with indesign or something similar. Would love to hear better ideas that are easy to translate to someone remotely, who may not have much in the way of technology available. She said I could share them too once they are archived...
    Saturday, March 22nd, 2014
    11:17 am
    how to design gussets

    I want to put an underarm gusset in a top I'm making to increase the range of motion, but I'm having a hard time finding anything on line about how to design gussets. (This is not a historical piece.) I've seen two types, a one-piece gusset and a two-piece gusset. Can anyone out there recommend a resource if I want to design a gusset, or can give me some tips?


    ETA - since writing the above, I found these two links. They are quite informative. Still, she leaves the actual drafting up to you.

    The sleeve cap one was interesting:

    This has pictures of a gusset, front & back. Again, leaves working out the steps up to you.

    I expect I'll go back to the drawing board on my sleeve cap design. & if anyone has anything to say about gussets, I'd love to hear it.
    Saturday, November 30th, 2013
    9:28 pm
    Need help with fabric choice
    My son is getting married in May & for various reasons I'm going to make my dress. I couldn't find anything I liked in the usual places until I discovered eBay's pattern listings.  I love & bought  this one view E or D, but now I'm having trouble deciding about the fabric.  The bride, bridesmaids and mother of the bride's dresses are made out of chiffon.  And I'd like to continue that if possible so the wedding pictures look cohesive.  But this pattern calls for crepe back satin, velveteen, taffeta or damask and chiffon is a softer fabric.  I'm not sure it would have the stiffness the dress requires. The dress is fully lined, so I could do satin with chiffon overlay, but again, I don't know if that would be too flow-y for the dress.  I was also considering just having a lace overlay on the sleeves & bodice to just below the bust line and possibly a lighter satin for the rest of the dress. It does get quite warm here in May and I don't want the dress to be too hot.

    So, do you think satin would look out of place when everyone else in the wedding party is in chiffon?  Can chiffon work for this dress? Is there any kind of cotton fabric that would be dressy enough to use with maybe a lace overlay or overlay for just the bodice?  I fell in love with the dress (it actually covers the top of your arm, but still looks formal), but now I'm doubting my choice.  Any input you have would be welcome. No one I know sews clothing.

    X-posted to Sew Hip
    Friday, October 4th, 2013
    1:23 am
    Serger help, please!
    Hi guys, having some trouble with tension on my Brother 1034D serger:
    I'm using green in my top looper and textured thread on my bottom as I'm sewing spandex.

    I think the problem is my left needle thread (which you can see is totally loose on the back) as I can remove that needle and thread entirely and sew a balanced 3 thread overlock after some tension adjustments. I've rethreaded, changed needles, and tried different combinations of tensions. I've only used this machine on a few projects since I got it 6 months ago, so the machine is still in like new condition. Any ideas?

    Thanks in advance!
    Sunday, September 29th, 2013
    9:23 pm

    I am in a position where I need to replace every single piece of equipment in my studio. I sew corsets, custom anything, and whatever I feel like, from chiffon to leather. I had a pfaff sewing machine from the 1980s, a five thread pfaff serger. A 8 thread serger and an industrial upholstery weight machine. I am wondering what you folks have, what you like/don't like... Also on the pressing front. Anyone have a press as well as an iron?

    Monday, August 26th, 2013
    5:08 pm
    Tuxedo fabrics
    I'm looking for some black faille to use as the lapels on a tuxedo, and for some reason I thought that pretty much had to be silk, but it looks like B Black & Sons sells a %100 polyester for this purpose. Has anybody used this? I just can't wrap my head around using anything polyester for anything as fussy and tailored as a tux. Also, they sell something they call Satin Tuxedo Braid, but it looks like it's just a roll of basic black satin ribbon, also polyester, like what you'd get for a craft project.

    Does anybody have any thoughts about whether or not this will work, or if it will misbehave in the typical manner of polyester when it's asked to conform nicely to wool? And does anybody know of a source for heavy silk faille/grosgrain fabric?

    Also, once upon a time, there was a fabulous post by harmanhay, which might have been in this community, but I'm not sure. She made a custom tuxedo for a friend and I was hoping to find that post again to review a bit before I start in on my husband's tux, and for the life of me I can't find it. Anybody remember that or know where it is?

    Saturday, June 22nd, 2013
    9:27 pm
    Curved side seams
    Hello all! I need to query the sewing expert database for the first time:

    I am drafting a pattern for a swimsuit and want to move the hourglass shaped side seams to the side front - where princess line seams would go. Is this possible? Is it somehow like rotating a dart? Do I simply widen the back and narrow the front? That doesn't seem like it would get the right shape where the side seams should go, but it's stretchy swimsuit fabric. I'm trying to envision how that would work, but just can't quite wrap my head around it. That could also be because it's getting late. :)

    Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
    Sunday, April 7th, 2013
    9:00 am
    Pattern Alteration for Flat Constructed Sleeve?
    Hello Advances Sewers,

    I need some help! I want to perfect a shirt pattern and I'm really struggling with fitting the shoulder/sleeve seam. All the commercial patterns I have found have set in sleeves but I prefer to use flat constructed sleeves and this seems to cause fitting problems in the shoulder area.

    I know how to remove the sleeve cap ease from the sleeve but it then seems like the shoulder needs to be extended to accommodate the loss of shaping in the sleeve cap that would normally come from the sleeve cap ease? Does that make sense?

    What I'm trying to say is that with a set in sleeve, the sleeve cap is roomier than a flat constructed sleeve and I'm not sure how to compensate for removing the ease for a flat construction. It ends up being tight on the point of my shoulder.

    All the fitting resources I can find place the shoulder/sleeve seam based on the assumption that you are using a set-in sleeve and when I tried to have the shoulder seam in the same place for a flat constructed sleeve, it ended up being tight on the point of my shoulder.

    Here is my most recent attempt at making a shirt

    Can you picture what I'm describing? Can you point me in the direction of any resources that might be useful? I'm also experimenting with drafting my own pattern from a basic torso sloper but all of the pattern manipulation resources I can find only talk about set in sleeves. What gives? Does anyone here have experience with flat constructed shirt sleeves? Please help.

    Thanks in advance!
    1:57 am
    Making the bust part of a wedding dress
    Having not touched my sewing machine for over 10yrs, I rather rashly offered to make my daughter-in-law's wedding dress. Unfortunately my own daughter then got engaged and I find myself with TWO dresses to make!
    They have both managed to purchase patterns that are *similar* to the dresses they desire, but both have made considerable changes to the bust design. I would go out and buy a pattern that covers this area but I live in Dubai and there are no shops selling patterns here as everyone uses tailors.
    One requires a 'swetheart' bustline, while the other fancies a sort of sweeping criss cross design.
    Can anyone please point me in the direction of a suitable site for constructing the required pattern pieces.
    Thankyou for your help.
    Friday, March 1st, 2013
    6:57 am
    Men's Herringbone Jacket
    A few months ago I posted several times in this community asking for help with fitting a man's jacket.

    I finally finished it and I'm so excited to share the results and say thank you again to everyone who contributed their expertise and encouragement!

    Pictures!Collapse )
    If you're curious, you can read about every excruciating detail here on my blog. I've also posted a tutorial for the custom labels here.

    Thanks again for all your help! 
    Sunday, December 30th, 2012
    6:56 pm
    Progress! Feedback welcome.
    front rectangle

    I posted a few times in this community in the last few weeks asking for fitting help with this pattern and now that I've started to get the actual garment put together, I thought I would share the progress I've made so far.

    I'm a little disappointed with the fit so far. It makes him look like a rectangle! Many of his jackets have vertical darts running from the corner if the pocket to just below the pectoral and I think that this jacket would benefit from the extra shaping. Unfortunately, I've already put in the pockets so I don't think there's any way to add darts now. Drat!

    Also, the pockets ended up being so bulky! Should I remove all the insides and make them non-functional pockets?

    I'll take it in a little more at the seams but I'm not sure if I should put the sleeves in first to see how they will affect the fit.

    There are more details here, here and here. Feedback welcome!

    pinned back
    Friday, December 14th, 2012
    8:03 pm
    Details, details...
    Thanks to everyone who commented on my post about fitting my jacket muslin! I'm hoping to be ready to start sewing on Monday.

    Here's my second muslin, if you're curious.

    The last thing that I'm concerned about is the shoulder seam. I've heard over and over again that the back piece of the shoulder seam should be a little longer than the front part, and eased in.

    But on the pattern I'm using, the seam matches perfectly without any easing.

    Should I adjust the shoulder of the back piece to be a bit longer? How much longer? 

    Should I just slash down through the shoulder seam and across to the armscye and spread it?

    Can someone suggest a tutorial that would show how to do this?

    Thanks again for all the help!
    Sunday, December 2nd, 2012
    9:58 pm
    Winter dress
    bow detail
    I made a winter dress for work. It's a 100% wool twill, which ended up beeing much stretchier than I had realized so it took quite a lot of tweaking. I also added this cute ribbon and bow detail, since it's an otherwise very simple dress.

    More photos and details here if you're interested.

    I knew that the fit would make or break the dress and I still have a lot to learn about fitting. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out but my sleeves are still not perfect. 

    I interfaced the hem. Have you tried this technique? I've posted a tutorial here.

    Cross-posted to sew_hip and my own journal.
    Sunday, November 18th, 2012
    9:14 am
    Fitting issues with men's jacket
    Hi all,

    I've just started my first foray into tailored men's garments. I'm using "Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket" but I'm having some fit issues that are not addressed in the book.

    The thing that I'm most unsure how to deal with is the fit of the collar.

    Cut for photos...Collapse )

    Cross-posted to my journal and sew_hip
    Monday, September 24th, 2012
    6:37 pm
    A person is looking for a seamstress to mod a beaded dress ($$)
    Hi I hope this is ok. I saw this ad on Craigslist (below). I thought someone on this community might possibly be able to and want to help. (Location is not specified in the ad. I put $$ in the subject line of my post, I assume this is paying, it was in the 'jobs' section of craigslist.)

    Highly skilled couture seamstress needed for wedding dress alteration. I have a dress which I need altered to a different style and bustle added. Also have a delicate beaded lace overlay fabric which i would like to add as a "top piece." It needs to be done by the end of November.

    Only skilled applicants please, have at least 10 years experience with high end beaded gowns.
    Saturday, September 8th, 2012
    1:20 pm
    Looking For a Fabric/Design Term
    I'm going bonkers trying to remember/figure out a term I might not know, and which might not exist. But I figure if anyone knows, it will be someone on this list.

    What do you call this kind of print?

    It's sort of like a paisley, but it doesn't have the defining teardrop shape. I could be wrong, but it strikes me as having similar middle-eastern roots as the paisley.

    The things you get sidetracked on while trying to reorganize/inventory your fabric collection - Gah!
    Sunday, August 26th, 2012
    8:48 am
    Dresses without waistlines help
    Hello my name is Max, i am fairly new to patternmaking but more advanced in sewing. I recently purchased a patternmaking book , and i am to the point where i want to draft a dress without waist line foundation. My main problem with this is that it is in my understanding, that to do this, you must use two measurements . The center front hip depth, and the hip "arc" measurement ( center front hip level to side waist) + 1/2" ease . Doing the simple draft is not difficult at all, however the dificult part comes when my book tells me to  place my pattern on the waistline  line and then close the waist dart to open up the shoulder dart, however given my measurements this does not seem at all possible since the side waist does not meet the waist line properly, can any one else help me with this? I've been stuck on it for months now. Im using Helen's Armstrong Patternmaking for fashion Design (5th ed).

    Current Mood: creative
    Monday, July 9th, 2012
    6:58 am
    Pants fitting - Baggy in back of thigh
    Cropped Pants

    I'm pretty happy with how these pants turned out and I like how they look in the mirror but I feel like the pants look terrible in photos and so do I. I know I have a difficult figure for pants, but I just love a little cropped pant so I'm going to ignore the fact that the fit isn't perfect and they're not the most flattering style for me and wear these like crazy. And every time I wear them I'm going to obsess about how I can make them fit better.

    There are more construction details posted on my livejournal.

    This pattern is still a little baggy at the back of the thigh. One pattern drafting tutorial I read said that the inseam of the back piece should be 1-1.5 cm shorter from crotch to knee than the inseam length of the front piece, and that you have to stretch the back piece from the crotch to the knee as you sew for a better fit. This is the first I've heard of this, as I'm still pretty new to the whole pants game. Can someone weigh in? Does this work with stretch and non-stretch fabric alike? Thanks for any advice!
    Monday, July 2nd, 2012
    8:55 pm
    How Do You Track Patterns?
    Every time there's a pattern sale and I'm looking through the books to see what patterns I might want to pick up, I find myself once again trying to figure a system for keeping track of what patterns I already own. In particular, I need to figure out some system I can take with me to the store (so just having a list of them on my computer at home won't work).

    Anyone out there got a system they'd like to share?

    I didn't originally think to mention that I don't have a smartphone. So any system that requires web access or an app won't work. But I do like the idea of photos, and was thinking of going that route (I just wasn't sure if maybe that was overboard), so I'm glad to hear that works well for some folks. So my plan is to take photos (or grab images off the web) and keep them all in a separate iPhoto library. I'll name them for pattern company and number, and tag for things like type of garment (dress, shirt, etc.) style details (v-neck, empire waist, etc.) and whatever else I can think of. So then, when at home, I can easily search/sort for whatever I'm looking for.

    For taking with me to the fabric store... I'm going to look into syncing the iPhoto library with my iPod, as one person mentioned they do. Not sure that will work, as my iPod is an older model. So if not, then I'll just print out pages of thumbnails and/or a simple list by pattern number that I can take with me.

    Thanks to everyone for sharing their methods/ideas.
    Friday, February 10th, 2012
    8:52 pm
    Making Corsets is a Cinch with Electra Designs (Kickstarter Campaign)
    I'm not sure if this falls under the category of advertising. If it is, please feel free to delete, and accept my apologies. I am Alexis Black of Electra Designs Corsetry. In addition to making high quality custom corsets, I also teach corset making. I would like to create a comprehensive collection of corset-making instructional materials that show people how to make corsets using my unique construction methods. I thought you might be interested.
    If you would like to learn more, please visit my kickstarter campaign page, pledge your support and share the project anywhere you think it might be appreciated. There is a short video there I think you might enjoy.
    Thank you so much!
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