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Below are the 20 most recent journal entries recorded in advanced_sewing's LiveJournal:

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Sunday, October 23rd, 2016
11:13 pm
Teal Tribal Print
I LOVE THIS DRESS!  I have added it to my typical week wardrobe for work!  This is seriously the first time I have been able to line up prints correctly AND not have any puckering in the sleeves! If you click on the picture below, you can see more about this dress.

Ok I lied, I was soo excited, here is another

Saturday, September 10th, 2016
11:09 am
Green Starburst Dress
Hello, I am really excited for this next dress. I made this with leftover fabric, there wasn’t too much left otherwise I would have liked to make sleeves. But you can see more if you click the picture below.
Sunday, September 4th, 2016
2:55 pm
Self Drafted Box Pleat Skirt
 Hello again!  I drafted this box pleat skirt all on my own with no pattern!  I am really really happy with how it all turned out!  If you want to see how I made it you can check out my blog by clicking the picture.  The next box pleat skirt I make I will make a tutorial on how to make them!

Sunday, August 21st, 2016
4:20 pm
Flower Work Shirt

I have finally found the time to finish this shirt! Between getting 2 new puppies and a new job while being promoted within 3 months. I have been very busy and I am really happy to finally be sewing again!

I used Vogue 8772 and some clearance fabric I got from Joann’s. If you want to see more about the shirt, or the puppies, you can click on the picture below!

Friday, August 28th, 2015
1:28 pm
UPDATE!! High School Dance Kimono's
Originally posted by samssignaturese at UPDATE!! High School Dance Kimono's
So Idk if you all reamember the High School Kimono's I made, but here is an update with all of the girls wearing them.  This picture just shows half of the team!
Saturday, August 8th, 2015
10:47 pm
Tribal Tunic
Originally posted by samssignaturese at Tribal Tunic
Hello! This tunic I made way back in 2010! If you want to see more like it you can click HERE!
6:39 pm
Saloon Girl Costume
Originally posted by samssignaturese at Saloon Girl Costume
Hey Everyone! This is my saloon girl costume! If you want to see a detailing as to how it was made you can see it HERE!
Monday, November 24th, 2014
3:47 pm
Pattern Scan
Over the summer I visited a small museum with a collection of in-package sewing patterns from the 30's and 40's. Talking to the curator, she said she'd be happy scan them for me, but isn't sure how. Does anyone have any advice? The best I can come up with is just do it chunk by chunk on a regular scanner, and I can piece them together with indesign or something similar. Would love to hear better ideas that are easy to translate to someone remotely, who may not have much in the way of technology available. She said I could share them too once they are archived...
Saturday, March 22nd, 2014
11:17 am
how to design gussets

I want to put an underarm gusset in a top I'm making to increase the range of motion, but I'm having a hard time finding anything on line about how to design gussets. (This is not a historical piece.) I've seen two types, a one-piece gusset and a two-piece gusset. Can anyone out there recommend a resource if I want to design a gusset, or can give me some tips?


ETA - since writing the above, I found these two links. They are quite informative. Still, she leaves the actual drafting up to you.

The sleeve cap one was interesting:

This has pictures of a gusset, front & back. Again, leaves working out the steps up to you.

I expect I'll go back to the drawing board on my sleeve cap design. & if anyone has anything to say about gussets, I'd love to hear it.
Saturday, November 30th, 2013
9:28 pm
Need help with fabric choice
My son is getting married in May & for various reasons I'm going to make my dress. I couldn't find anything I liked in the usual places until I discovered eBay's pattern listings.  I love & bought  this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/200648190800?var=500027532764&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 view E or D, but now I'm having trouble deciding about the fabric.  The bride, bridesmaids and mother of the bride's dresses are made out of chiffon.  And I'd like to continue that if possible so the wedding pictures look cohesive.  But this pattern calls for crepe back satin, velveteen, taffeta or damask and chiffon is a softer fabric.  I'm not sure it would have the stiffness the dress requires. The dress is fully lined, so I could do satin with chiffon overlay, but again, I don't know if that would be too flow-y for the dress.  I was also considering just having a lace overlay on the sleeves & bodice to just below the bust line and possibly a lighter satin for the rest of the dress. It does get quite warm here in May and I don't want the dress to be too hot.

So, do you think satin would look out of place when everyone else in the wedding party is in chiffon?  Can chiffon work for this dress? Is there any kind of cotton fabric that would be dressy enough to use with maybe a lace overlay or overlay for just the bodice?  I fell in love with the dress (it actually covers the top of your arm, but still looks formal), but now I'm doubting my choice.  Any input you have would be welcome. No one I know sews clothing.

X-posted to Sew Hip
Friday, October 4th, 2013
1:23 am
Serger help, please!
Hi guys, having some trouble with tension on my Brother 1034D serger:
I'm using green in my top looper and textured thread on my bottom as I'm sewing spandex.

I think the problem is my left needle thread (which you can see is totally loose on the back) as I can remove that needle and thread entirely and sew a balanced 3 thread overlock after some tension adjustments. I've rethreaded, changed needles, and tried different combinations of tensions. I've only used this machine on a few projects since I got it 6 months ago, so the machine is still in like new condition. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!
Sunday, September 29th, 2013
9:23 pm

I am in a position where I need to replace every single piece of equipment in my studio. I sew corsets, custom anything, and whatever I feel like, from chiffon to leather. I had a pfaff sewing machine from the 1980s, a five thread pfaff serger. A 8 thread serger and an industrial upholstery weight machine. I am wondering what you folks have, what you like/don't like... Also on the pressing front. Anyone have a press as well as an iron?

Monday, August 26th, 2013
5:08 pm
Tuxedo fabrics
I'm looking for some black faille to use as the lapels on a tuxedo, and for some reason I thought that pretty much had to be silk, but it looks like B Black & Sons sells a %100 polyester for this purpose. Has anybody used this? I just can't wrap my head around using anything polyester for anything as fussy and tailored as a tux. Also, they sell something they call Satin Tuxedo Braid, but it looks like it's just a roll of basic black satin ribbon, also polyester, like what you'd get for a craft project.

Does anybody have any thoughts about whether or not this will work, or if it will misbehave in the typical manner of polyester when it's asked to conform nicely to wool? And does anybody know of a source for heavy silk faille/grosgrain fabric?

Also, once upon a time, there was a fabulous post by harmanhay, which might have been in this community, but I'm not sure. She made a custom tuxedo for a friend and I was hoping to find that post again to review a bit before I start in on my husband's tux, and for the life of me I can't find it. Anybody remember that or know where it is?

Saturday, June 22nd, 2013
9:27 pm
Curved side seams
Hello all! I need to query the sewing expert database for the first time:

I am drafting a pattern for a swimsuit and want to move the hourglass shaped side seams to the side front - where princess line seams would go. Is this possible? Is it somehow like rotating a dart? Do I simply widen the back and narrow the front? That doesn't seem like it would get the right shape where the side seams should go, but it's stretchy swimsuit fabric. I'm trying to envision how that would work, but just can't quite wrap my head around it. That could also be because it's getting late. :)

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
Sunday, April 7th, 2013
9:00 am
Pattern Alteration for Flat Constructed Sleeve?
Hello Advances Sewers,

I need some help! I want to perfect a shirt pattern and I'm really struggling with fitting the shoulder/sleeve seam. All the commercial patterns I have found have set in sleeves but I prefer to use flat constructed sleeves and this seems to cause fitting problems in the shoulder area.

I know how to remove the sleeve cap ease from the sleeve but it then seems like the shoulder needs to be extended to accommodate the loss of shaping in the sleeve cap that would normally come from the sleeve cap ease? Does that make sense?

What I'm trying to say is that with a set in sleeve, the sleeve cap is roomier than a flat constructed sleeve and I'm not sure how to compensate for removing the ease for a flat construction. It ends up being tight on the point of my shoulder.

All the fitting resources I can find place the shoulder/sleeve seam based on the assumption that you are using a set-in sleeve and when I tried to have the shoulder seam in the same place for a flat constructed sleeve, it ended up being tight on the point of my shoulder.

Here is my most recent attempt at making a shirt

Can you picture what I'm describing? Can you point me in the direction of any resources that might be useful? I'm also experimenting with drafting my own pattern from a basic torso sloper but all of the pattern manipulation resources I can find only talk about set in sleeves. What gives? Does anyone here have experience with flat constructed shirt sleeves? Please help.

Thanks in advance!
1:57 am
Making the bust part of a wedding dress
Having not touched my sewing machine for over 10yrs, I rather rashly offered to make my daughter-in-law's wedding dress. Unfortunately my own daughter then got engaged and I find myself with TWO dresses to make!
They have both managed to purchase patterns that are *similar* to the dresses they desire, but both have made considerable changes to the bust design. I would go out and buy a pattern that covers this area but I live in Dubai and there are no shops selling patterns here as everyone uses tailors.
One requires a 'swetheart' bustline, while the other fancies a sort of sweeping criss cross design.
Can anyone please point me in the direction of a suitable site for constructing the required pattern pieces.
Thankyou for your help.
Friday, March 1st, 2013
6:57 am
Men's Herringbone Jacket
A few months ago I posted several times in this community asking for help with fitting a man's jacket.

I finally finished it and I'm so excited to share the results and say thank you again to everyone who contributed their expertise and encouragement!

Pictures!Collapse )
If you're curious, you can read about every excruciating detail here on my blog. I've also posted a tutorial for the custom labels here.

Thanks again for all your help! 
Sunday, December 30th, 2012
6:56 pm
Progress! Feedback welcome.
front rectangle

I posted a few times in this community in the last few weeks asking for fitting help with this pattern and now that I've started to get the actual garment put together, I thought I would share the progress I've made so far.

I'm a little disappointed with the fit so far. It makes him look like a rectangle! Many of his jackets have vertical darts running from the corner if the pocket to just below the pectoral and I think that this jacket would benefit from the extra shaping. Unfortunately, I've already put in the pockets so I don't think there's any way to add darts now. Drat!

Also, the pockets ended up being so bulky! Should I remove all the insides and make them non-functional pockets?

I'll take it in a little more at the seams but I'm not sure if I should put the sleeves in first to see how they will affect the fit.

There are more details here, here and here. Feedback welcome!

pinned back
Friday, December 14th, 2012
8:03 pm
Details, details...
Thanks to everyone who commented on my post about fitting my jacket muslin! I'm hoping to be ready to start sewing on Monday.

Here's my second muslin, if you're curious.

The last thing that I'm concerned about is the shoulder seam. I've heard over and over again that the back piece of the shoulder seam should be a little longer than the front part, and eased in.

But on the pattern I'm using, the seam matches perfectly without any easing.

Should I adjust the shoulder of the back piece to be a bit longer? How much longer? 

Should I just slash down through the shoulder seam and across to the armscye and spread it?

Can someone suggest a tutorial that would show how to do this?

Thanks again for all the help!
Sunday, December 2nd, 2012
9:58 pm
Winter dress
bow detail
I made a winter dress for work. It's a 100% wool twill, which ended up beeing much stretchier than I had realized so it took quite a lot of tweaking. I also added this cute ribbon and bow detail, since it's an otherwise very simple dress.

More photos and details here if you're interested.

I knew that the fit would make or break the dress and I still have a lot to learn about fitting. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out but my sleeves are still not perfect. 

I interfaced the hem. Have you tried this technique? I've posted a tutorial here.

Cross-posted to sew_hip and my own journal.
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