Amanda Panda ([info]all_laced_in) wrote in [info]advanced_sewing,
2008-03-10 14:18:00
I am making a bias cut dress out of a crepe backed polyester satin (eewwww yes, but I this is what the budget could afford) and having tummy trouble. As you can see its got poof at the tummy. I can't figure out what to do with it. . I also had to cover them in a stretch fleece to prevent the bumps from the wire showing through! Any suggestions? I am at wits end!
I put bust darts in to help a bit, but no matter what I do it seems I can't get rid of it. Am I just being silly? does it look bad? help?


PhotobucketPhotobucket


Thanks!

  • Post a new comment

    Error

    switch

    Your IP address will be recorded 

     
    Help
  • 15 comments

[info]squeeful

March 10 2008, 21:36:28 UTC 4 years ago

I'd say your front (and probably back) waist length is too long for the dress form's shape. Too much distance between the underbust and the hips.

But it's always nice to be told your body shape is unreal/freakish/crazy. Way to perk up my day.

[info]all_laced_in

March 10 2008, 21:58:45 UTC 4 years ago

Im sorry, I did not mean it like that. These dressforms are standing in a way that if a human were too, it would be sticking your pelvis out and your rear out at the same time. Its a challenge, they are very stylized.
Thanks for your advice. Again I didn't mean to make you feel bad, all bodies are beautiful no matter what.

Anonymous

September 11 2008, 11:21:37 UTC 3 years ago

bias

you could try smoothing the fabric out .from the tummy , allong the grain line (diagonally ) and removeing excess from the side seam at the under arm.

[info]anais_pf

March 10 2008, 22:00:29 UTC 4 years ago

I have to agree, it looks like the dress is longer-waisted than the form is. On the other hand, I think it looks kind of arty the way it is. You may find that the fabric relaxes some after it has hung for a few days, and it may mold itself more to the form.

Depending on what the end use is, you could leave it as is, or use a piece of ribbon with alligator clips on each end to pull in the waist in the back (where maybe it wouldn't show?), which I understand they do all the time when shooting live models at fashion photography shoots. Or, you could try taking in the shoulder seams to pull the whole dress UP about an inch, but that might not work very well with the bust darts. (The ends of the darts will end up too high on the dress form.)

[info]all_laced_in

March 10 2008, 22:11:13 UTC 4 years ago

I tried pulling it up before at the shoulder seams which did not help it at all :/. I am trying to pull the waist in more (it can't really go higher), which helps a bit but gives me some drag lines also.
I wish i could pull it in, but they are display viewed from all angles!
I'm hoping for the fabric relaxing!
I have to make 3 of these!

[info]rosebranch

March 10 2008, 22:07:46 UTC 4 years ago

It's hard to offer suggestions when the dress obviously doesn't fit the wire form that you've photographed it on. Is this dress for yourself? If so, do you have the same problem with the fabric when you try it on?

[info]all_laced_in

March 10 2008, 22:12:20 UTC 4 years ago

No, the form is about 30 inches tall with about an 8 inch waist. Its more of a display item.

[info]rosebranch

March 11 2008, 15:36:29 UTC 4 years ago

Ah! Now I get it.

Looking more closely, the skirt of the dress is very tight - I can see the bottom edge of the form, and for a display item I shouldn't be able to. I suspect that THAT is what's causing the problem: the fabric is pulled in at the skirt, causing the belly area (which may well have adequate fabric) to balloon out. Have you tried letting out the skirt, or cutting a new front that has a wider skirt area?

[info]eggies_red_dres

March 11 2008, 17:38:44 UTC 4 years ago

*second* Try widening the panel just below the poufing area.

[info]ericaequites

March 11 2008, 12:34:35 UTC 4 years ago

Have you considered making a Duct tape or shipping tape double to fit and show the dress on? There are instructions on the Web, and it allows one to duplicate your own posture and stance very well.
I really love the color of the dress. It reminds me of mallard's wings.

[info]designingdreams

March 11 2008, 15:36:11 UTC 4 years ago Edited:  March 11 2008, 15:37:47 UTC

With bias cut items, you typically have to let the fabric stretch first, because it will stretch a lot (depending on what the fabric is, polyester satin won't stretch *too* much... but I suspect some of that hang is bias stretch. I typically clip the fabric onto a hanger, on the bias, and stretch it for 24 hours before I cut my pattern out...

Also, poly satin has much less 'bias stretch' than a natural silk would have. Go find a silk chiffon or something, and pull it on a bias-- it has a LOT of give, and therefore, on a body, it will stretch/drape better. A poly satin, and especially a heavier-weight one like you are using, will give a lot less, meaning it won't stretch as much to fit the body.

I suspect this is just a case of using the wrong weight and type of fabric. I probably would've gone with a chiffon or a georgette.

As for how to fix it- don't try to adjust the side seams IN. that won't help. I think you *might* be able to take some of the excess fabric out in the bust darts.

The best solution is actually to take the side seams OUT a bit, especially right in the hip area (hope you left some seam allowance!). If the dress is bigger, especially in the hips, the bias will fall nicer.

Hope that helps!

Anonymous

March 25 2008, 23:03:28 UTC 4 years ago

Bias dress

If the back waist is doing the same thing, the hip area is too small. If it is not doing the same thing, the front is too long for the back. I think the hips need to be larger either way. Sarah@dosfashionistas

Anonymous

March 26 2008, 09:59:56 UTC 4 years ago

My comment: you must close the waist darts from your pattern in a certain way. This will alter the position of armhole, shape of side seam and hip curve. Then the fabric can slide down. You can not just subtract the waist darts from side seam. I have not much done in bias but I think bias will enlarge the problem.
If you want I'll can give you a picture
heidi

Anonymous

March 26 2008, 12:04:31 UTC 4 years ago

Bias issus

first off: you are very brave, or a glutton for punishment. but either way; first off you must let the fabric settle. hang it diagonaly for at least 13 hours before cutting. It is best to give and extra 1/2 inch to the wait and hips on your pattern ( so that you have room to alter). If you do any darts at all they need to be princess line darts, this will help to take up the slack that you get in the tummy, plus it also makes the torso look longer! good luck!!

Anonymous

March 31 2008, 18:19:15 UTC 4 years ago

Hi. The problem is that the shoulders of your dress form are too narrow. Notice the way your neckline is gaping at the CF. If you had a proper form with wider shoulders(natural width), the gaping would disappear. This would also mean that the entire garment would sit a bit higher thus also correcting the tightness through the hips.
I think you may have a problem in the bust area if you correct the shoulder.
If you like the drapy-ness of the neckline. I would suggest you add an empire seam and "pick up" the CF below the new empire seam. (i could go on)
Create an Account
Forgot your login or password?
Facebook Twitter More login options
English • Español • Deutsch • Русский…