Cathy Hay (peacockdress) wrote in advanced_sewing,
Cathy Hay

The Oak Leaf Dress: Making a pattern

Thank you for all your kind comments! I'm glad to have you along for the ride. :) Anyway...

Here are my notes on the pattern for each piece of the oak leaf dress, channelling Janet Arnold as best I can... (click and then click again for big version)



The cut of the skirt is fascinating. The silk they used was only 22" wide. Originally I was thinking that if I can get 60" silk satin I can do it in three sections - the two sides and the bib at centre front - or even in one, as a half circle skirt. But eventually I decided that it'll actually be very useful to do it in pieces like this, since I can do the soutache oak leaves on smaller pieces and then put them together and finish the pattern over the joins. (My embroidery frame is a very convenient 25" wide.)

Also, notice that the petticoat was done by the "cabbage" method - using scraps so as to avoid waste. I'm embarrassed to say I wasn't so "green" when I made mine.

For the bodice, I used a draft from 1901 in Turn-of-the-Century Fashion Patterns and Tailoring Techniques that was the same shape with a similar number of pieces. I just made the front darts into one dart and then split it into two pieces there. And obviously, I brought the neckline right down.

Next: underpinnings!
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