Lehni (lehni) wrote in advanced_sewing,

Please help me with wrinkly bodice seams


I'm currently making a dress for myself but I'm having lots of trouble with the bodice. It's a top layer of silk joined to the middle layer and lining only at the back seams. The rigilene boning is sewn to the middle layer.

My main problem is the wrinkling occurring at the bust curve. I originally thought I could cover this up with lace, but my preferred lace placement leaves this seam exposed. Will topstitching along the seam help? Or do I need to remake it? I probably have enough time to redo it but I guess I would prefer not to if I can save this. I drafted the pattern myself so that is probably why I am struggling with it. (I did go through several mockups, but I guess none of them were perfect). It also gives me a flatter chest than I was hoping for, like it's really squishing me rather than giving a modern, rounded shape.

If I need to remake it, I was thinking of continuing to use rigilene boning (I do have spiral and spring steel boning but would prefer not to use it). However I would construct it more like how I would construct a corset, with each layer of fabric sewn together at the seams of each panel. Would this help, or do I still need to alter the pattern itself? Does the curvature of the seam over the bust need to be changed?

These two shots show the wrinkles over the bust seam:



Bodice shot for reference (lace motifs are just pinned on and not sewn):


Front of dress WIP:


My pattern - goes from Centre back to centre front (from left to right). Most of the centre back panel had to be cut off entirely in my final version! I'm not sure how I got the maths so terribly wrong as my mockup seemed to fit ok. My centre back seam in the bodice shown is basically the far centre seam of the side back piece.


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