dana_knockouts (dana_knockouts) wrote in advanced_sewing,

Pattern Alteration for Flat Constructed Sleeve?

Hello Advances Sewers,

I need some help! I want to perfect a shirt pattern and I'm really struggling with fitting the shoulder/sleeve seam. All the commercial patterns I have found have set in sleeves but I prefer to use flat constructed sleeves and this seems to cause fitting problems in the shoulder area.

I know how to remove the sleeve cap ease from the sleeve but it then seems like the shoulder needs to be extended to accommodate the loss of shaping in the sleeve cap that would normally come from the sleeve cap ease? Does that make sense?

What I'm trying to say is that with a set in sleeve, the sleeve cap is roomier than a flat constructed sleeve and I'm not sure how to compensate for removing the ease for a flat construction. It ends up being tight on the point of my shoulder.

All the fitting resources I can find place the shoulder/sleeve seam based on the assumption that you are using a set-in sleeve and when I tried to have the shoulder seam in the same place for a flat constructed sleeve, it ended up being tight on the point of my shoulder.

Here is my most recent attempt at making a shirt

Can you picture what I'm describing? Can you point me in the direction of any resources that might be useful? I'm also experimenting with drafting my own pattern from a basic torso sloper but all of the pattern manipulation resources I can find only talk about set in sleeves. What gives? Does anyone here have experience with flat constructed shirt sleeves? Please help.

Thanks in advance!
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